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Monday, December 13, 2010

Care of Poinsettia Plants After Christmas - YouTube Video



January to March – Keep watering when the surface is dry and misting the plant throughout the day (3-4 times). Poinsettias love the humidity the misting creates.

April
– Gradually decrease watering allowing the poinsettia plant to get dry between watering. But be careful that the plant does not shrivel. Discontinue misting during this period. After your poinsettia is used to this dryness, move it to a cool basement or any place where the temperature is about 60 degrees F for a period of about four weeks.

May – Cut the plant back to about 4-5 inches above the soil level, repot into the next size container and sprinkle one tablespoon of bone meal over the roots. At this time you may also add some slow release fertilizer, like 14-14-14, or 19-6-12 for faster growth. Water the newly transplanted plant with Superthrive or any transplant solution which contains Vitamin B1. Now it’s time to place your poinsettia plant in a sunny window where the temperature is above 65 degrees F. Mist the poinsettia daily and water when the surface is dry. If you haven’t added a slow release fertilizer while transplanting, start fertilizing with an all purpose fertilizer every two weeks as soon as new growth appears.

June
– Move your poinsettia plant outside into a partial sunny location and continue to water and fertilize it.

July – At the beginning of the month cut back each stem about an inch. This will encourage your poinsettia to branch resulting in a bushy plant. If you don’t pinch it back, your poinsettia grows tall without side branches.

August
– By now your plant should have branched well and it’s time to cut it back one more time so each shoot has about four leaves left. At this time continue with your fertilizing, misting, and watering schedule.

September
– Continue to fertilize, misting, and water and make sure the temperature stays above 65 degrees F.

October – As your poinsettia needs short days in order to set buds, you have to provide it with twelve hours of total darkness starting the first day of October. Give the plant darkness from 5 pm to 8 am every day during this period. Without these additional hours of darkness poinsettias won’t set buds and the leaves remain green. Place a box or black plastic bag over the poinsettia plant making sure no light reaches the plant. During daytime move the plant to a sunny window and continue to fertilize, misting, and water.

November
– At the end of the month discontinue the darkness treatment and leave the plant in its sunny window. At this time you should be able to see flower buds.

December
– Discontinue fertilizing about the middle of the month. Continue watering and misting and treat your poinsettia plant just like you did after you bought it. At this time your poinsettia plant should be blooming again.

Like many tropical plants poinsettias can be grown successfully indoors when properly tested and proven guidelines are followed. One can enjoy poinsettia plants for months until it is time to bring out the Easter Lily.

Next, for your Free book, Grow your Own Tropical Garden, visit Poinsettia Plants.

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Poinsettia Plants - Initial Care....Video



When purchasing poinsettia plants make sure the plant is wrapped properly to protect it from cold temperatures during the trip home.

Place the poinsettia plant near a sunny window.
Maintain a temperature above 65 degrees F.
Mist the poinsettia plant daily with lukewarm water.
To avoid spots on the leaves from misting use distilled water.
Water the poinsettia when the surface is dry to the touch.
Water thoroughly until the water completely drains into the saucer.
Make sure to empty the saucer of drained water.
Keep the poinsettia plant away from all drafty areas, hot or cold air.

Next, for your FREE guide, Grow your Own Tropical Garden, visit Poinsettia Plants.

Poinsettia Plants Care & History - Press Release

Bob Walsh Enterprises proudly announces the publication of their new web page Poinsettia Plants - Care and History.

The goal was to publish this web page is to coincide with National Poinsettia Day, December 12, 2010. This day was authorized by Congress to honor Joel Roberts Poinsett, the first United States Minister to Mexico, who is recognized as being the first person to bring this very popular holiday plant to America around 1825. Mr. Poinsett died on December 12, 1851.

The poinsettia plant is not only the favorite festive Christmas Holiday plant, but it is one of the best-selling plants each year in the United States. Poinsettias represent over 85 percent of the potted plant sales during the Holiday Season. Ninety percent of all poinsettia plants are exported from the United States. The poinsettia is commercially grown in all 50 States.

Poinsettia Plants – Care and History not only celebrates the rich history of the poinsettia beginning with the Aztecs in its natural habitat in Mexico, but also offers readers detailed information on how to provide the best care for poinsettia plants. The beautifully designed videos one finds on this page add to the informative text that brings the rich history of poinsettia plants to life. This timely created and published web page explains the connection of this colorful winter-blooming plant and how it has endeared itself to the American public's psyche both socially and religiously at this time of year.

It details the efforts of one immigrant German-American family who single-handedly dedicated themselves to make the poinsettia "The Holiday Plant" here in the United States and grows over 80 percent of all poinsettia plants for commercial sales that help California to be the top poinsettia producing State in the USA.

This poinsettia producing family is credited with creating 90 percent of all poinsettia varieties found in the world today. There are over 100 different varieties of poinsettia plants.

The poinsettia plant is often misunderstood as to what the actual flowers are. This web page provides clear definitions and descriptions of the various parts of this holiday plant. The page also addresses the misconception that the poinsettia plant is poisonous.

Poinsettia Plants - Care and History provides detailed information and tips on how to care for poinsettias not only to have them survive the Holidays themselves, but also be able to enjoy them until it is time for the Easter lily to arrive on the scene sometimes in March or April.

All the detailed information on the care of poinsettia plants does not stop there. It provides a year long process of care that allows its owner to regrow the plant for the next holiday season.

In honor of National Poinsettia Day, Bob Walsh Enterprises proudly introduces Poinsettia Plants - Care and History to share with the world the rich and brightly colored history that is hidden under its own spectacular beauty that ultimately can be celebrated well beyond the holidays themselves.

Bob Walsh, author of ‘How To Grow Plumeria–Frangipani Anytime Anywhere’, has been growing tropical plants for 20-plus years in plant hardiness zone 5. For your FREE tropical plants guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful FREE tips on how to grow tropical plants indoors and outdoors, visit Poinsettia Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Saturday, December 11, 2010

YouTube Video - Care of Poinsettia Plants



The Poinsettia, Euphorbia pulcherrima, is considered the Christmas Holiday plant and is generally purchased in full bloom at this time of the year. What is the best care for the Poinsettia plant so it will survive the Holiday Season? How long can I expect the plant to last? Can it ever be planted in the garden or is it just a seasonal plant for the Holidays?
Learn how to take care of your newly purchased poinsettia plant and how to treat your poinsettia plant each month of the year to enjoy its colored bracts and flowers the following Christmas Holiday season.

Next, for your FREE guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Poinsettia Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Wednesday, December 8, 2010

History of Poinsettia Plants




Euphorbia pulcherrima, the botanical name, or poinsettia as we call it, is native to Mexico and Guatemala in Central America. Poinsettias are part of the Euphorbiaceae family. Many plants in this family ooze a milky sap. The botanical name, Euphorbia pulcherrima, was given to the poinsettia by German botanist, Karl Ludwig Wilenow. The plant grew through a crack in his greenhouse. Dazzled by its color, he gave it the botanical name Euphorbia pulcherrima, meaning “very beautiful”.

The History of the Poinsettia in its Native Habitat


The Aztecs in the fourteenth through sixteenth centuries called this plant “Cuetlaxochitl” in their native Nahuatl language. Cuitllatl means “residue” and xochiti means “flower”, thus it is “the flower that grows in the residues or soil”. Montezuma, the last of the Aztec kings, had poinsettia plants brought up to what is present day Mexico City by caravans. The Aztecs saw the plant as a symbol of purity and used it as a dye and against fevers.

Seventeenth century Spanish botanist Don Juan Balme mentions poinsettia plants in his writings. He found the plant flourishing on the slopes and in the valleys near Cuernavaca. He described the plant as having large green leaves and a small flower surrounded by brilliant red bracts, almost as if for protection.

At the same time the Spanish Franciscan Friars, who settled in the Taxco region of southern Mexico, included the timely winter grown red blooms of the plants in their Fiesta de Pesebre, the Nativity procession. The star-shaped leaf pattern is said to symbolize the Star of Bethlehem and was named “Noche Buena” meaning Christmas Eve. The name “poinsettia” is derived from Joel Roberts Poinsett who was the first United States Minister to Mexico from 1825 to 1829. Mr. Poinsett first brought poinsettia plants to America.

Poinsettias are fascinating winter blooming small shrubs or trees which can grow anywhere from about two to sixteen feet tall. Dark green leaves which are about three to six inches in length add to the festive appearance of this plant.

The colored bracts of poinsettia plants are actually leaves. Colors of the bracts can be red, pink, orange, white, or marbled. These colored bracts are caused by photoperiodism. Many flowering plants use a photoreceptor protein, such as phytochrome or cryptochrome, to sense changes between daylight and the darkness of night or photoperiod, which they take as signals to flower.

People not familiar with poinsettia plants believe that the colored bracts are the actual flowers. But the flowers, called cyathia, are located at the center of each leaf bunch.

Poinsettia plants are considered toxic by many. But this is not the case. They may cause mild skin irritations to some individuals who are sensitive to it. If any part of the plant is ingested, it may cause an upset stomach, diarrhea and vomiting. In addition, the sap that exudes from a broken branch may cause temporary blindness if it comes in contact with the eyes.

History of the Poinsettia's Arrival in the Unites States and its Name

The poinsettia was introduced to the United States by Mr. Poinsett in 1828. He had sent and brought cuttings from Mexico to his greenhouses in Greenville, South Carolina. He shared these cuttings with friends and other horticulturalists he knew at the time.

Euphorbia pulcherrima, the name originally given by German botanist Karl Ludwig Wilenow was changed to “Poinsettia” in honor of Mr. Poinsett in 1836 by William Prescott, the historian and horticulturalist, who was asked to rename the plant. In his newly published historical work at the time on Mexico, ‘Conquest of Mexico’, Mr. Prescott details Mr. Poinsett’s discovery of this beautiful plant in the area of Taxco del Alarcon in southern Mexico.

During the 1920s Albert Ecke and his son Paul became interested in poinsettia plants which grew wild in southern California at this time. As these plants bloomed during the Holiday season both Albert and Paul thought that this would be a perfect plant to introduce to the public. Paul continued to foster the idea of making the poinsettia the “official holiday flower” for Christmas. They grew fields of poinsettia plants and began to sell them commercially. The plants were initially sold at roadside stands in the Hollywood and Beverly Hills area.

In 1923 the family moved their business to Encinitas, about 2 hours south of the very fast developing area around Los Angeles. Encinitas proved to be the perfect location for growing poinsettias as it mirrored the growing conditions of its native Mexico where these plants grow wild.

From 1923 to the mid-1960s they grew fields of poinsettia mother plants, and shipped them to plant nurseries around the country that purchased them for cultivation and future commercial sales. Paul personally traveled the country promoting the plant to nurseries nationwide and encouraged nursery owners to market the plant as a holiday flower.

But this changed in 1963 when the first commercial-quality poinsettia cultivar was developed. It grew best as a potted plant and was introduced to the public. This dramatically changed the nature of commercially growing and selling poinsettia plants. Even for the Ecke Family Business, they moved indoors from the fields to growing these smaller plants in greenhouses. They began shipping by air freight rather than by rail.

Paul Jr. with his marketing ideas to always keep the poinsettia plant in the public eye used the very popular growing medium of television to promote these bright red and later red and white potted flowering plants. They became a part of the scenery in most every popular TV show and all the Christmas Specials during the holiday season. No holiday scene would be complete without at least one blooming poinsettia plant.

Today Dr. Ruth Kobayashi continues to produce new poinsettia hybrids for the Ecke family. Dr. Kobayashi’s work resulted in the knowledge of the most important poinsettia genetics known today. In 2002 ‘Prestige Red’ was introduced known for its outstanding branching capabilities and very sturdy stems. ‘Prestige Red’ quickly became the number one selling red poinsettia. Presently experiments continue to breed other species with the Euphorbia genus. Currently there are more than 100 varieties of poinsettias available.

Here are some of the cultivar names exhibiting some of the most spectacular poinsettia colors available today: Cortez Red, Cranberry Punch, Flirt, Galaxy Red, Marblestar, Nutcracker Pink, Monet, Plum Pudding, Silverstar White, Sonora Fire, Victory Red, White Christmas, Spotlight Apricot, and Pearl.

In addition many commercial growers have cultivated new plants which have longer lasting bract colors and lasting foliage that can survive poor watering schedules. Poinsettia growers have characteristically made today’s plants bruise resistant and more flexible with less fragile bracts that can survive shipping without dropping their leaves that allows them to arrive beautifully intact to the stores and nurseries for retail sales.

Next, for your FREE guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Poinsettia Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

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Monday, December 6, 2010

Care of Amaryllis Bulbs & Amaryllis Flowers




The genus Amaryllis consists of two species. One species Amaryllis belladonna is indigenous to South Africa, specifically the Cape of Good Hope.

Sometimes Amaryllis belladonna is confused with Hippeastrum, a flowering bulb which is commonly sold during the winter months as it easily blooms indoors.

Dutch growers are considered the first commercial breeders of Hippeastrum dating back to the 18th century. Usually you see Amaryllis bulbs in nurseries and garden centers around the middle of October so they are in bloom for Christmas and through the Holiday Season.

When purchasing an Amaryllis bulb, Hippeastrum, it already has a perfect embryo flower formed. The bulb is ready to be planted.

Most Amaryllis bulbs, Hippeastrum, produce two flower stalks with each stalk producing four to six Amaryllis flowers.

What do you do when your Amaryllis stops flowering?

For your FREE guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Free Tropical Plants Guide.

Wednesday, December 1, 2010

Poinsettia Plants - Euphorbia Pulcherrima

Euphorbia pulcherrima, Poinsettia, is native to Mexico
and Central America. The name "poinsettia" is derived
from Joel Roberts Poinsett who was the first United
States Minister to Mexico. Mr. Poinsett introduced the
Poinsettia to the United States in 1828.
Euphorbia pulcherrima is also called Atatürk flower.

The colored bracts of poinsettia plants, which may be
red, cream, orange, pink, white or marbled, are actually
leaves.
These colored bracts are caused by photoperiodism.
This means that they require 12 hours of darkness at a
time to change colors. But at the same time Poinsettias
also need a lot of bright light during the day to develop
their brightest colors.

Currently there are more than 100 different varieties of
Poinsettia plants available. The flowers are located at
the center of each leaf bunch and are called cyathia.

There is a common misconception that Poinsettias are
toxic. But this is not true.
They may cause mild skin irritations to some individuals
who are sensitive to it. In addition, if eaten they may
cause an upset stomach, diarrhea, and vomiting.

When purchasing Poinsettia plants make sure the plant is
wrapped properly to protect it from the cold temperatures
during the trip home.

Initial care of your newly purchased Poinsettia....

• Place it near a sunny window.
• Maintain a temperature above 65 degrees F.
• Mist the plant daily with lukewarm water.
• To avoid spots from misting use distilled water.
• Water the plant when the surface is dry to the touch.
• Water thoroughly until water drains into the saucer.
• Make sure to empty the saucer of drained water.


Poinsettia care after the Holidays....

January to March - Keep watering when surface is dry
and mist daily.

April - Gradually decrease watering allowing the plant to
get dry between watering. But be careful that the plant
doesn't get too dehydrated. Discontinue misting
during this period. After your Poinsettia is used to
this dryness, move it to a cool basement or any place
where the temperature is about 60 degrees F for a period
of about four weeks.

May - Cut the plant back to about 4-5 inches
above the soil, repot it into a slightly larger container
and sprinkle a tablespoon of bone meal over the roots.
You may also add a slow release fertilizer,
such as 14-14-14, at this time. Water it with Superthrive
or any transplant solution which contains Vitamin B1.

Now it's time to place it in a sunny window where the
temperature can be kept above 65 degrees. Mist the plant
daily and water when the surface is dry.
If you haven't added a slow release fertilizer, start fertilizing
with an all purpose fertilizer every two weeks as soon as
new growth appears.

June - Move your Poinsettia plant outside into a
partial sunny location and continue to water and fertilize.

July - At the beginning of the month cut back each stem
about an inch or an inch and a half. This will encourage
your Poinsettia to branch resulting in a bushy plant.
If you don't pinch it back, your Poinsettia grows tall
without side branches.

August - By now your plant should have branched well
and it's time to cut it back one more time so each shoot
has about four or five leaves left. Continue with your
watering, misting, and fertilizing schedule.

September - Continue to water, misting, and fertilize
making sure the temperature stays above 65 degrees F.

October - As your Poinsettia plant needs short days
in order to set buds and the top leaves to change colors,
you have to give it twelve hours of total darkness starting
October 1.

This is imperative for a well colored plant.
Give the plant darkness from about 5 pm to 8 am.
This can be achieved by placing a box or black bag over
the plant. Any exposure to light during these hours of
darkness will negatively affect bud set.
During daytime move the plant back to its sunny
window and continue watering, misting, and fertilizing.

November - At the end of the month discontinue the
darkness treatment and leave the plant in its sunny
window. At this time flower buds should be present.

December - Discontinue fertilizing about the middle
of the month. Continue watering and misting, and treat
your Poinsettia plant just like you did when you bought it.
Your Poinsettia should be blooming again at this time.

Next, for your FREE guide, How To Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Monday, November 22, 2010

The Fragrant World of Plumerias and Frangipani

Plumerias originated in the Caribbean, including the South American countries of Columbia, Guyana, and Venezuela, and throughout Central America.

Names of plumerias range from Paucipa in Puerto Rico, Flor de Mayo in Mexico, Flor de la Cruz in Guatemala, Amapola in Venezuela, Tipanier in Tahiti, Pumeli in Hawaii, Frangipani in Australia, Jepun in Bali, Indonesia, Dok jumpa in Laos, Phool in India, Pomelia in Italy, Pagodenbaum in Germany, Flor de Cebo on the Canary Islands to Plumies in the USA.

These beautiful exotic tropical plants can range in size from dwarfs, which under the most ideal conditions don't grow more than six feet tall to giant trees up to 30 feet in height.

Their intoxicating and unforgettable fragrances include gardenia, jasmine, ripe peaches, grapes, honeysuckle, roses, ginger, coconut and many more.

Colors of plumeria flowers include white, yellow, orange, salmon, pink, red, rainbows, and some hybrids even show some purple.

Their flower petals are defined by their distinct and unique characteristics. They can be wide, narrow, elliptical, twisted and slightly, moderately, or highly overlapped. They can be described as thick and waxy, delicate and thin, and have various textures in between.

Plumeria leaves which range from light to dark green in color are a beautiful background for these colorful, fragrant flowers. Leaves also provide natural protection from high winds.

Plumerias can be started from seeds or unrooted cuttings. You may purchase a grown rooted plant with or without developing inflorescences, with or without buds to a fully flowering plant. It is most important to purchase your plumeria cuttings and plants from reputable retailers known for selling quality merchandise. Price does not guarantee quality.

Plumerias are unique plants in a way that they can be lifted from the ground or pot and stored overwinter in a heated basement or garage. They go completely dormant during the colder months of the year needing no watering or fertilizing. Come spring plumeria enthusiasts are able to replant their plumies, an affectionate name given to them by their growers, and enjoy their sensuous fragrances again.

But these tropical beauties can also be grown successfully indoors all year long with the use of special plant lights which create the tropical sunlight that plumerias enjoy in their natural habitat. This is why plumerias, frangipani, can be grown outside their natural subtropical and tropical zones as these grow lights imitate over 90 percent of the available sunlight.

Plumerias can be grown successfully from seeds, cuttings, or as rooted plants both indoors and outdoors following tried and tested guidelines. All plumerias grow best in fast draining soil, ample sunshine and, or plant lights, proper airflow and humidity, good proper fertilization, and knowledgeable insect and disease controlled methods.

When growing frangipani outside, proper fertilizing is more important than the tropical sun. Plumerias are grown outside as far north as Alaska. But plumerias need a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight or fourteen to sixteen hours of grow lights in order to bloom.

As more and more gardeners are discovering the beauty and popularity of plumerias, frangipani, more information becomes available.

For more information on growing plumerias successfully based on tried and tested methods, and to receive your FREE guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit How To Grow Plumeria.

Article Source: http://ezinearticles.com/ezinepublisher/?id=5359134

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Wednesday, November 17, 2010

How To Grow Amaryllis Bulbs - Hippeastrum

Today's topic of Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants
is Amaryllis Bulbs - Hippeastrum.

Amaryllis is also known as belladonna lily or naked ladies.
The genus consists of 2 species.
One species, Amaryllis belladonna, is indigenous to South
Africa, specifically the Cape of Good Hope.

Sometimes it's confused with Hippeastrum, a flowering bulb
which is commonly sold during the winter months as it easily
blooms indoors.

Hippeastrum is a genus comprised of about 90 species and
more than 600 hybrids native to the tropical and subtropical
regions from Mexico south to Argentina and throughout
the Caribbean.

"Hippeastrum" is Greek for "horseman's star" known today
as"knight's star".

Dutch growers are considered the first commercial breeders of
Hippeastrum dating back to the 18th century. Usually you
begin to see them in nurseries and garden centers around
the middle of October so they are in bloom for Christmas
and through the Holiday Season.

When purchasing an Amaryllis bulb, Hippeastrum,, it already
has a perfect embryo flower formed. It's ready to be planted.

Soak the roots of the newly purchased bulb in a cup or glass of
lukewarm water to which you added some seaweed. Make sure
that just the roots are submerged in the water and not any
part of the bulb itself. Keep the base of the bulb above
and outside the water.

Leave the roots in the water-seaweed mix overnight.
It will be ready to plant the next day. The overnight
soaking of the roots in the seaweed mixture will
enhance the growth process of your Hippeastrum
because of the essential trace elements that are
present in the seaweed.

To plant the bulb start with a 6-inch container.
Fill it 1/3 of the way with a well draining potting
mix. Place the bulb in the center of the pot. Sprinkle
some bone meal around the roots. Cover the bulb to the
point that the "neck" of the bulb is above the soil.

Water the mixture thoroughly with lukewarm water to which
you add some seaweed and/or Superthrive.
Place your newly potted bulb in front of a well lit window.

Don't water again until you see some growth in the leaves,
flower stalk, or both. During the growing period keep the
potting medium moist. Most Amaryllis bulbs, Hippeastrum,
produce two flowers stems, which in turn can produce up to
four to six blooms each.

When your Hippeastrum is finished flowering, cut off the dead
flower stalk and continue to grow it until August/September.
During this period keep it in good light, water regularly, and
fertilize every other week with a fertilizer high in phosphorus
and potassium. You do this to promote next season's flowers.

In August/September stop watering and fertilizing. Store the pot
with the bulb in a dark place. This begins its dormancy stage.
In December/January remove most of the soil from the top of
the container until the roots are exposed. Sprinkle some bone
meal around the roots and cover with fresh potting medium.
Water with seaweed and/or Superthrive.
In a couple of months your bulb will bloom again.

It should be noted that some gardeners are able to have their
Hippeastrum bloom twice a year, during winter and summer.

The topic of the next Ezine is Euphorbia pulcherrima, another
Christmas Season favorite, commonly known as Poinsettia.

Happy Growing,

Bob Walsh
www.howtogrowplumeriafrangipani.com

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Monday, October 25, 2010

Best Grow Lights - Led Lights Compared To HID lights

LED lights, light emitting diode lights, have been
used as grow lights for quite some time now.

Recently I researched the internet and stumbled upon
LED lights produced by Sunshine Systems which
produces light systems similar to HID lights.

There are, however, some additional advantages
over HID lights that special LED lights offer.....

• Up to 80% energy savings over HID lights.
• Almost no heat is emitted.
• They provide both the blue and red spectrum.
• Grow everything from seeds to flowers to fruits.
• 50,000+ hour bulb life.
• No bulbs to replace, EVER.
• They are environmentally friendly.

Sunshine Systems include the following....

GlowPanel 45 - uses only 45 Watts of energy and its
output is equivalent to one 250 Watt high pressure
sodium and metal halide bulb.

GrowUFO - uses only 90 Watts of energy and its
output is equivalent to one 400 Watt high pressure
sodium and metal halide bulb.

GroPanel Pro - uses only 300 Watts of energy and
its output is equivalent to one 1000 Watt high pressure
sodium and metal halide bulb. This is the strongest
LED light
available. It covers a 50 square foot growing
area.

It's very impressive what these Sunshine Systems offer,
especially when you consider that there are no bulbs to
be replaced, ever.

Next, for your FREE Gift, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden,
which includes useful tips on how to grow tropical plants
anytime anywhere, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Thursday, October 7, 2010

Plant Grow Lights - HID Lights

Today's topic of 'Successful Guide To Growing
Tropical Plants is grow lights, HID lights
to be exact.

HID - High Intensity Discharge - lights provide you,
the indoor gardener, with ideal conditions
to grow your tropical plants, tomatoes, peppers,
herbs, and more, all year long without worrying
about weather phenomena like high winds, thunderstorms,
damaging hail, and cold temperatures.

With grow lights you are able to grow plants indoors
that you thought were impossible to grow.

HID lights emit a lot of heat which cuts down on your
energy bill if you decide to add one to your living room
or family room.

Special light fixtures/reflectors are needed for the
use of HID lights.

The three types of HID lights are....

Metal Halide

High Pressure Sodium

Agrosun

Metal Halide lights are high in the blue light spectrum
which promotes lush foliage growth.


High Pressure Sodium lights
are high in the red light
spectrum which promotes budding and flowering.

Agrosun lights combine BOTH the blue and red light
spectrum and are therefore considered ideal for
growing foliage and flowering plants plus vegetables
under the same bulb.

Agrosun bulbs are used in Metal Halide reflectors/
fixtures with the same wattage.

Personally I'm using one 1000 Watt Agrosun and one
400 Watt High Pressure Sodium light both of which
provide excellent results.

Now is the time of the year many of you bring your plants
inside and face the nightmare of finding the right spot for
them. There don't seem to be enough windows in your
home to provide your plants with the correct
lighting conditions.

This is the time of the year to include grow lights in your
indoor garden.

Next, for your FREE Gift, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden,
which includes useful tips on how to grow tropical plants
anytime anywhere, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010

Saturday, September 25, 2010

Monstera deliciosa & Alpinia formosana

Today's subject of 'Successfull Guide To Growing
Tropical Plants' is Monstera deliciosa and
Alpinia formosana.

Monstera deliciosa known by many names, including....

• Ceriman
• Cheese Plant
• Delicious Monster
• Fruit Salad Plant
• Mexican Breadfruit
• Monstera
• Monstereo
• Monsterio delicio
• Split-leaf Philodendron
• Swiss Cheese Plant

Monstera deliciosa is a member of the Araceae, Arum,
family and an epiphyte with aerial roots which can grow
up to 60 feet or more in its natural habitat which extents
from southern Mexico to Panama.

It grows best at temperatures above 70 degrees and
should not be exposed to temperatures below
50 degrees. It tolerates dry air pretty well but
appreciates an occasional misting.

It also benefits the plant if it is wiped with a moist
cloth periodically to remove any dust accumulation.

During active growth water it thoroughly before the
potting medium becomes dry.

Fertilize it with a fertilizer high in Nitrogen, like 9-3-6.
It also appreciates some fish fertilizer and Epsom
Salt periodically.

The fruit of Monstera deliciosa, like all members in
the Araceae family, often contain Raphides and
Trichosclereids, which are needle like structures
of calcium oxalate.

It takes one year for the fruit to fully ripen.

Fruits that have not ripened contain oxalic acid.
When the fruit is ingested in this unripened state,
it immediately causes blistering, painful irritation
and swelling.

Other interesting uses of Monstera deliciosa....

In Peru, the aerial roots are used as ropes and in
Mexico they are used to make baskets.

In Mexico the leaves and roots are used to make an
infusion to get relief from arthritic pain.

In Martinique the roots are used to treat snakebites.


Alpinia formosana
is a member of the Zingiberaceae,
Ginger, family.

It has beautiful green leaves with white pinstriping hence
it's other name pinstripe ginger.

If planted in the ground, it can grow as tall as 6 to 8 feet,
in pots 3 to 4 feet.

It grows very well in pots and if supplied with good light,
adequate moisture and fertilizer grows quite fast.

It's flower are porcelain white and red.

It makes a good houseplant and looks stunning in the
company of red and pink Caladiums.

Next, for your FREE Tropical Plant Guide, Grow Your Own Tropical
Garden
, which includes useful tips on how to grow tropical plants
in any climate, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Saturday, September 18, 2010

Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants - Organic Insect Control

Today's topic of 'Successful Guide To
Growing Tropical Plants' is
organic insect control which includes....


• Insecticidal soap
• Pyrethrins
• Rotenone
• Insecticidal oil
• Neem oil
• Bascillus thuringiensis
• Yellow paper traps

....to name the most common ones.

All of them do a terrific job in getting rid of
insects and protecting the environment,
your family, pets, and, of course,
your plants.

First, you have to schedule a regular
spraying routine for your plants.

Have you sprayed your plants, and
think that you got rid off all the insects,
only to see them return a few days later?

This happens with both synthetic and
organic insect control. The reason for
this is that adult insects are killed but
not their eggs they laid before you got
to them. The insects hatch and the
cycle starts all over again.

You have to set up a spraying routine
to spray your plants at least once a week
on a regular basis until you feel
comfortable that the insect problem has
been brought under control.

Like yourself I was very frustrated
with this process to say the least.

Then I discovered Pyola, an organic insect
control product, which kills adult insects
as well as their larvae and eggs.
It is made from canola oil and pyrethrins.

Pyola is fast acting and kills on contact
many insects including....
• Aphids
• Fungus gnats
• Scale insects
• Spider mites
• Thrips
• Whiteflies....and many more

With Pyola you spray once,
maximum twice, and your insect
problems are history. This product
is very cost effective, one pint
makes up to 12 gallons.

Next week's topic of
'Successful Guide To Growing
Tropical Plants' is Alpinia formosana,
a member of the Ginger family, and
Monstera deliciosa both of whichmake great indoor and outdoor plants.

Next, for your FREE Tropical Plant Guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful tips on how to grow tropical plants, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Friday, September 10, 2010

Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants - Crinum Lily

This week's topic of 'Successful Guide To Growing
Tropical Plants' is the Crinum lily.

The Crinum is a member of the large Amaryllidaceae
family.

The word 'Crinum' originates from the Greek word
Krinon which means 'white lily'.

There are believed to be about 180 species of Crinum
globally with Africa recording the most species.

The Crinum lily grows from bulbs with long sword-like leaves.
The flower stalk arising laterally is leafless, and
produces one or multiple flowers.

Several years ago I received five Crinum bulbs from
a friend in late fall.

After I researched the growing conditions for Crinum,
I decided to plant three bulbs in one 10-inch pot
and the remaining two bulbs in separate 8-inch pots.
I placed the pots on the periphery of one of my indoor
light gardens.

During the winter the bulbs grew abundant foliage,
but did not flower. I thought that by spring they would
be potbound which encourages Crinum to bloom
when grown in pots.

This was still not the case.

May arrived and still there were no blooms. I decided
to spoil the Crinum with some extra bone meal.
Each single bulb in the 8 inch pot got 1 handful
of bone meal, and the pot with the three bulbs
received 3 handfuls....one for each bulb.

In addition, I fertilized them with a 10-50-10 fertilizer
every time I watered them and added the same
fertilizer to my seaweed solution when foliar feeding.

To make a long story short....the Crinum bulbs in the

10 inch pot were in bloom a few weeks later with one

bulb from the triple bulb planted pot producing 8 flower

stalks during the summer.

The 2 bulbs planted into two separate 8 inch pots took
several months longer to produce flowers.


Following is a summary for Crinum care.....

1. Plant your Crinum lily, depending on variety, in smaller
pots than you would other plants of the same size.
This way they are potbound and bloom faster.

2. Be generous with bone meal - 1 handful per bulb.

3. Fertilize your Crinum regularly with a fertilizer high
in Phosphorus....10-50-10.

4. Use the same type of high Phosphorus fertilizer
when foliar feeding your Crinum.

5. Grow your Crinum in full sun or under grow lights.


This spring I had to transplant the three bulbs as
their root system cracked the pot.

They are now each in individual 10 inch pots.
They haven't flowered this summer, but I know
they will as soon as they are totally potbound.

I'm going to update you on their progress and email
you pictures as soon as they bloom.

Next, for your FREE gift, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful tips on how to grow tropical plants in any climate, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Saturday, September 4, 2010

Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants - Organic Fungicides

Today's topic of 'Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants'
is organic disease control, namely organic fungicides.

One step for prevention of plant diseases is to have adequate
space between your plants to allow for proper air circulation.

We all know how disheartening it can be to have well growing
plants, including tropical plants, develop sudden diseases.

Several years ago I grew double Petunias between my tropical
plants to add some additional color. But two years in a row
all petunias I planted developed fungal diseases several weeks
after being planted.

That's when I received a catalog about organic gardening in the
mail. Whenever I see a promising product on the internet or in
a catalog, I give it a try.

That's how I discovered Soap-Shield.

I sprayed the petunias and everything I was growing at this time,
including tropical plants, tomatoes, and roses.

Knowing that 'prevention is the mother of all cures' I used
Soap-Shield as a preventative. Ever since using Soap-Shield
the first time I haven't had any sick petunias, and the tomatoes
look as healthy at the end of September as they did in June.
I highly recommend Soap-Shield and it can be used both
indoors and outdoors.

This is how the developer describes the product....

Soap-Shield is a flowable copper liquid fungicide which protects
plants from infection.

It is effective when used on....

• tropical plants
• roses
• vegetables
• fruits
• ornamentals
• grass

Fixed copper is one of the oldest fungicides and bactericides
used to control a wide range of plant diseases.

Soap-Shield is made by combining a soluble copper fertilizer
with a naturally occurring fatty acid. The copper and the fatty
acid combine to form a copper salt of the fatty acid known as
a true soap.

This copper soap fungicide controls many common diseases
using low concentrations of copper, down as low as 90ppm.

Soap-Shield
decomposes to form soluble copper and fatty
acid, both of which are used by microbes and plants.

I only recommend any gardening products to you which I have
used myself for several years and with which I would not garden
without anymore.

Next, for your FREE Tropical Plants Guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful tips on how to grow tropical plants anywhere, visit Tropical Indoor Plants.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Foliar Feeding Your Tropical House Plants With Seaweed

Today's topic of 'Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants'
is foliar feeding which is a fertilizing technique of applying
liquid fertilizer to the leaves of plants.

Along plant leaves are pores, called Stomata, through which
the fertilizer is absorbed and made immediately available to
the plant. These Stomata are located on both sides of the
leaves. It's therefore important to spray both sides of the leaves
when foliar feeding.

Foliar feeding benefits plants tremendously, especially container
grown plants because of root growth filling the container with
roots quickly.

The roots are not able to absorb enough nutrients anymore
and the plants may develop nutrient deficiencies.

But the principle of foliar feeding applies to all your plants,
including tropical house plants, flowers, and vegetables resulting in
lush foliage, vibrant colored flowers, and an increase in vegetable crop.

Adding a surfactant, like Coco Wet, prevents the fertilizer
solution from running off the leaves.

Use about 1/4 to 1/2 of the recommended dosage of fertilizer
listed on the bottle or container.

More gardeners, including myself, add sea-based nutrients
to their fertilizer solution as they contain many of the
fifty trace nutrients. As the plant and the roots grow,
the need for trace elements increases. The soil itself is
unable to provide all these element anymore.

For years I've tested different seaweed brand names.
Finally, I've found one which produces phenomenal results.
This seaweed not only provides your plants with essential
nutrients, but also enhances the effect of the liquid fertilizer
you add to it.

This special strand of seaweed, Ascophyllum nodosum, is
available as Sea Magic from several internet stores.

Ascophyllum nodosum grows naturally in the cold waters
of the Atlantic Ocean. After being harvested, it is quickly dried
through a special process to keep its natural qualities intact.

To use properly, dissolve the content of the package of seaweed
in a 2-liter bottle and keep this concentrate in your refrigerator.

Each time you foliar feed, add 2 - 3 tablespoons of the concentrate,
per 32oz. spray bottle, to your spray mix.

Now add your liquid fertilizer plus the surfactant and you're ready
to foliar feed your plants.

Every couple of months add 1/4 cup of the seaweed
concentrate (which you already mixed), per 3-gallon
watering can, when watering your plants.

This powerhouse nutrient, Ascophyllum nodosum, is
also very cost efficient.

Once you use it and see its effect on your plants,
you'll never garden without it.

Next topic of 'Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants'
is Organic Disease Control.

Next, for your FREE Tropical Plant Guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful tips how to grow tropical plants in any climate, visit Tropical House Plants.

Bob Walsh
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants Vol. 3 - Organic Fertilizers

Today's issue of 'Successful Guide To Growing
Tropical Plants' deals with one of my favorite
topics, organic fertilizers.

The subject of organic fertilizers is so broad that
I'm only focusing on a few products no gardener
should be without.

These products may be used on everything you
grow, including tropical plants, annuals, perennials,
vegetables, and more.

You may use these organic soil additives and fertilizers
alone or in combination with synthetic fertilizers.

Organic fertilizers are animal or plant products, or
by-products which are available in granular and liquid
forms.

Blood Meal....

• Dried, powdered blood
• One of the highest organic sources of Nitrogen
• Follow package instructions
• Too much can burn plants with excessive Ammonia
• Completely soluble
• Can be mixed with water and applied as liquid fertilizer
• Deters animals in your garden, like rabbits, as well
• Can be used as composting activator
• Sprinkle it around roots at planting time, or
• Top-dress by working into soil around plants already planted


Symptoms of Nitrogen deficiency....


• Overall poor plant growth
• Yellowing leaves due to reduced Chlorophyll
• Lower leaves more affected
• Rest of plant is often light green


Bone Meal....

• Slow release fertilizer made from crushed bones
• Provides Phosphorus and Calcium
• Finely ground bone meal provides fast release of nutrients
• Sprinkle it around roots at planting time, or
• Top-dress by working into soil around plants already planted


Symptoms of Phosphorus deficiency....

• Lack of, or poor, flowering
• Leaf tips turn brown or black
• This is followed by lower leaves turning dark-green or reddish-purple


Fish Emulsion....

• Organic fertilizer high in Nitrogen
• Typical N-P-K analysis is 5-2-2
• Can be applied as soil drench or foliar feed
• Look for fish emulsion that has been deodorized
• Any "after-scent" is short lived


Blood meal, bone meal, and fish emulsion are the three gardening
products widely used by many gardeners, including myself.


Another widely used product is....

Guano....

• Excrement of seabirds and bats
• Contains high levels of Phosphorus and Nitrogen
• Added to soil deficient in organic matter

The topic of organic fertilizers can be covered in hundreds
of Ezine articles being such an extensive subject.

The above mentioned soil additives and fertilizers, blood meal, bone meal, fish emulsion, and guano will make your tropical plants look their best and reward you with lush foliage and
colorful, vibrant inflorescenses (flowers).

In the next Ezine the subject is the use of Seaweed.
This powerhouse Seaweed gives your plants an
"Adrenaline Rush" resulting in picturesque
tropical plants you usually see only in
gardening magazines and catalogs.

Next, for your FREE tropical plants guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful tips on how to grow tropical plants in any climate, visit Tropical House Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Sunday, August 15, 2010

YouTube Video - Growing Hawaiian Hibiscus Plants & Hibiscus Flowers



This YouTube video explains how to grow the best hibiscus plant.
In addition, the Hawaiian origin of Hibiscus flowers is explained.

Next, for your FREE Tropical Plants Guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Tropical House Plants.

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Growing Hawaiian Hibiscus Plants and Flowers

Most of us are familiar with hibiscus flowers that range in colors from red, yellow, pink, blue, and everything in between. The flowers are quite large ranging in size from two to ten inches compared to other tropicals.

Hibiscus plants are members of the Malva family, Malvaceae. This plant family includes more than 200 species of annual and perennial plants.

The Hibiscus, in all colors and varieties, was the State Flower of Hawaii until the 1920s. It was not until 1988 that the yellow Hibiscus, Hibiscus brackenridgei, which is native to Hawaii, was officially adopted as the State Flower of Hawaii.

Visitors to the Hawaiian Islands think that all the beautiful hibiscus flowers which they observe on the Islands are native to Hawaii. But this is not the case.

Chinese Hibiscus, also called Hibiscus rosa-sinensis, is the hibiscus plant most commonly grown as ornamental plant on the Islands. This is the one so often associated with Hawaiian flowers.

In addition to the yellow Hibiscus, here is a list of hibiscus plants native to the Hawaiian Islands....

Hibiscus arnottianus produces white flowers. Hibiscus arnottianus is closely related to Hibiscus waimeae. Both produce fragrant flowers, which is a unique characteristic of hibiscus flowers.

Hibiscus brackenridgei
produces showy, bright yellow flowers. This yellow hibiscus can grow to be over 30 feet in height; this is tall for the hibiscus family. Hibiscus brackenridgei is closely related to Hibiscus divaricatus.

Hibiscus clayi is a small tree found in its natural habitat on the Island of Kauai. It produces bright red flowers.

Hibiscus furcellatus
, a pink flowered hibiscus plant, is found in the Caribbean, Central and South America, and on Hawaii. On Hawaiian Islands it is known as akiohala, hau hele, and hau hele wai.

Hibiscus kokio can grow up to 20 feet or more with red and orange flowers.

Hibiscus tiliaceus, common to the tropics, may be native to Hawaii or was brought to Hawaii by early Polynesians.

Hibiscus waimeae
grows up to 30 feet tall producing white flowers.

Hibiscus plants we grow on the mainland produce gorgeous flowers, either monochromatic (one color) or polychromatic (many colors) on each plant.

Hibiscus hybrids include 'All Aglow', 'Black Beauty', 'Bon Temps', 'Cajun Blue', 'Kona', 'Norman Lee', 'Peggy Hendri', and countless more.

Hibiscus plants can be grown in the ground year round in areas with little or no frost, such as plant hardiness zones 9 and 10.

When brought home from the nursery the hibiscus should be placed in a partial sunny area and gradually moved to sunnier exposures until it's exposed to full sun.

It is essential for hibiscus plants to have a very well draining soil. Otherwise the roots may rot.

Do not to use any fertilizer high in nitrogen when fertilizing. This results in lots of vegetation growth, but hardly any flowers. Your plants will benefit tremendously from regular foliar feeding. It is important to spray both sides of the leaves. It is also very helpful to add a surfactant to your spraying solution. This will prevent the solution from running off the leaves.

When your hibiscus plant grows out of shape, it can be pruned to the desired shape. You need to be careful that all danger of frost has passed. New growth can be easily damaged by a late frost.

Unfortunately, insects like to feast on hibiscus leaves. The insects include aphids, mealy bugs, scales, thrips, and whiteflies. If this is the case a good spraying with insecticidal soap a few times or one application of a systemic insecticide should take care of the problem.

Grown indoors, hibiscus likes sunny windows or be put under grow lights.

Hibiscus is just one of many tropical plants that reward you with colorful flowers all year long when you give them the proper care they need.

Next, for your FREE Gift, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes many useful tips on how to grow tropical plants in any climate, visit Tropical House Plants

Article Source: http://ezinearticles.com/ezinepublisher/?id=4834379

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants Vol. 2 - Fertilizers

Now that you potted your new tropical plants,
let them adjust in their new pots for about
2 weeks, it's time to talk about fertilizers.

Fertilizers are sold as....

•Granular
•Liquid
•Organic
•Synthetic

Granular fertilizers
are usually slow release
fertilizers meaning that they release the nutrients
to the plant over a period of time.

Liquid fertilizers are added to water and are
immediately available to your plants by absorption
through the roots.

Organic fertilizers are derived from animal or
vegetable waste, or contain minerals which
organically exist in nature already.

Synthetic fertilizers are inorganic, or man-made
fertilizers.

All fertilizers have 3 numbers on their packaging
representing the percentage of each nutrient present.

These 3 elements are called Primary Macronutrients
because they are consumed in larger quantities by plants.

•The first number represents Nitrogen (N)
•The second number represents Phosphorus (P)
•The third number represents Potassium (K)

Any fertilizer labeled 15-9-12, for instance, contains....

•15% Nitrogen
•9% Phosporus
•12% Potassium

The 3 Secondary Macronutrients include....

•Calcium (Ca)
•Sulfur (S)
•Magnesium (Mg)

But any good fertilizer also contains Micronutrients.
They are called Micronutrients because they are
required by plants in much smaller amounts than
Macronutrients.

Micronutrients include....

•Boron (B)
•Copper (Cu)
•Iron (Fe)
•Manganese (Mn)
•Molybdenum (Mo)
•Zinc (Zn)
•Chloride (Cl)

Sometimes we look at plants and think they are
sick because they show yellowing leaves or other
signs which disturb the appearance of the plant.

But all your plants need is a change in their
"diet and menu" you are giving them,
namely fertilizers.

This Ezine was a trip back memory lane visiting
chemistry class.

In the next Ezine I want to talk about organic
fertilizers and organic soil additives which benefit
your tropical plants tremendously.

Next, for your FREE Gift, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, which includes useful tips on how to grow tropical plants in any climate, visit Tropical House Plants.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Friday, August 6, 2010

Tropical Plants - Grow Your Own Tropical Garden

Love at first sight. You hear the stories of two people meeting for the first time, and they "fall in love at first sight". It's a very magical experience, and it is happening over and over again with more and more frequency all over the world involving more and more people.

People from all over the world are seeing tropical plants in their natural habitat, and they are falling in love with them. More people are traveling to the tropical and subtropical regions of our world discovering for themselves the myriad of tropical flowers. They travel to various Caribbean Islands in the West Indies, to Hawaii and the Polynesian Islands such as Tahiti, Southeast Asia, Indonesia and Bali, and the jungles of Central and South America.

The modern international travelers, like the explorers centuries before them, discover the precious gems called tropical plants and flowers, often for the first time. Their bright exquisite colors, rich intoxicating fragrances are like gold in the senses of the modern day explorers.

Like their predecessors, they, too, want to bring these newly found treasures home with them. These treasures include heliconias, gingers, bananas, costus, bromeliads, hibiscus, bird of paradise and other tropical plants with variegated foliage.

With love and for love they want to create a bit of the tropics and a bouquet of tropical blossoms right in their own backyard gardens, green houses, porches, and in every room and window available in their homes savoring the very sensuous experience of the tropical paradise they just visited.

Many of these international travelers live in temperate zones that would prevent these subtropical and tropical plant species from surviving and/or growing. In the past this would have been the end of the story. Like a disappointed teary-eyed child, they would have returned home and lived with a broken heart for the rest of their lives.

But over the years with new modern day equipment of indoor lighting, better techniques and improved growing methods, the dream of creating one's own tropical garden of visual beauty and intoxicating fragrances can become a part of their reality.

More and more books are being written for the passionate tropical plant lover. More and more nurseries and garden centers each year are introducing and offering more and more varieties from more and more destinations around the world.

Both locally and on the internet interest in tropical plants is growing by leaps and bounds every year. With more and more books being written on the subject describing in details how to grow your own tropical garden and how to care for your tropical plants, more and more tropical plant lovers can live out their dreams.

Even if you live outside the subtropical and tropical hardiness zones of 9, 10, or 11 hope springs eternal for tropical plant lovers worldwide. You, too, equipped with the right book with good solid information and a good and reputable nursery or plant store, can create your own tropical garden both indoors and outdoors, in greenhouses, garden rooms, and on window sills throughout the house.

Even if you can't afford to travel to a tropical paradise every year, you will have a bit right there in your own home with all of the beauty and fragrances of these exotic flowers.

Next, for your FREE Gift, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Tropical Garden.

Article Source: http://ezinearticles.com/ezinepublisher/?id=4778959

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants - Volume 1

"Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants"....Volume 1, August 4, 2010

Welcome to your first issue of
Successful Guide To Growing Tropical Plants.

The intention of this Ezine is to provide you with
useful information on how to have your tropical
plants grow and look their best.

You browse the internet and/or catalogs,
you decide to order some tropical plants for
yourself, and today they arrive in the mail.


You receive your plants in one of three ways....
Bare rooted wrapped in shredded newspaper
Bare rooted wrapped in sphagnum moss
Plant is sent in its original pot

If you receive your plants bare rooted, make sure you
have all your potting ingredients and utensils ready,
including your soil-less potting mix, before you unwrap
the roots.

Tropical plants need a fast draining soil. The better draining
your soil is, the less chance of over watering.
Add some Perlite or horticultural Pumice to your soil-less
potting mix for better drainage.

The best way to do this is by mixing them in a separate
container before adding them to the pot you will use for
planting your new arrival.


Be aware that Perlite holds more water than horticultural
pumice which affects your watering schedule depending
on the climate you live.

Also be aware that, if your potting mix contains fine particles,
they will settle over time at the bottom of the pot and deprive
the roots of oxygen. This may result in the demise of your
precious exotic plant.

After transplanting always use a transplant solution which
contains Vitamin B1.

It's helpful to separate your new plants from the rest of your
plants to make sure there are no bugs hidden in the soil
which could attack the plants you are already growing.

Most plants are treated with an Insecticide before shipping,
but it never hurts to be cautious.

If your plants arrive in their original pots, place them in a
partially shaded area and water them if needed.
Do not fertilize or transplant them for the next 2 weeks.
This enables the plants to adjust to their new environment.

Enjoy your new plants, watch them grow, give them the care
they need, and they reward you with beautiful foliage and
vibrant flowers.

For Your FREE Tropical Plant Guide, which includes useful tips on how to grow your own tropical garden, visit Grow Your Own Tropical Garden

Happy Growing,

Bob Walsh
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Monday, August 2, 2010

Exotic Tropical Plants - Grow Your Own Tropical Garden



Folks travel all over the world to tropical destinations and fall in love with the exotic plants they see.

Wishing to be able to grow them in their own climate they return home just with memories of their tropical paradise.

But it is possible to grow these tropical plants at home as well.

Find out more and get your absolutely FREE ebook, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, by visiting Grow Your Own Tropical Garden.

Copyright © Bob Walsh Enterprises 2010
www.bestindoortropicalhawaiianhouseplants.com

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Best Indoor Tropical House Plants – Grow Your Own Tropical Garden



Bob Walsh Enterprises proudly announces the release of their FREE ebook, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden.  This FREE ebook draws attention to one of the hottest gardening interest in recent times.
Strelitzia reginae - Bird Of Paradise
Once thought to be impossible to grow outside the subtropical and tropical areas of the world, and plant hardiness zones 9, 10 and 11, tropical plants have drawn the attention of plant lovers worldwide.  Through increased international travel to tropical areas of the world, including the South Pacific, Southeast Asia, Indonesia, Central and South America, and the Caribbean, the discovery of these beautiful and exotic plants has captured the minds and hearts of gardeners everywhere.
Allamanda cathartica
Now, travelers have passionately fallen in love with the idea of bringing these tropical plants home to create their own gardens both indoors and outdoors as house plants even though they live in plant hardiness zones not known for growing tropical flora.
Grow Your Own Tropical Garden wants to offer tropical plant lovers worldwide, including those who live in northern climates, the opportunity to keep their dream alive and create their own tropical garden.  Whether it began with an image from Hawaii, Tahiti, Bali, or somewhere in the Caribbean that ignited this dream based on the visual beauty and intoxicating fragrances of these tropical flowers, the dream of creating one’s own tropical garden is always present in their mind and hearts.  It has become a passion with them.
Bob Walsh Enterprises is offering through this FREE ebook the opportunity to once again experience the breathtaking beauty of these tropical plants, and give tropical plant lovers the information they need to create their own piece of tropical paradise no matter where they live. 
Based on their own experience of growing tropical plants outdoors and indoors, both in windows and under grow lights, and many years of learning and successfully developing growing methods, the author now shares his knowledge with other passionate tropical plant lovers through this FREE ebook, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden.


Next, for your FREE ebook, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Best Tropical House Plants.




Copyright © Robert Walsh Enterprises 2010